Ancient Grain Flour Baking

A Guide to Einkorn, Spelt & Heritage Wheat

One of our community members recently asked about einkorn flour after trying it for the first time. This got me thinking about ancient grain flour baking and how many of us in the Baking Great Bread at Home community might benefit from exploring these heritage wheat varieties for their unique flavors, better nutrition, and potentially easier digestion.”

What Are Ancient Grain Flours?

Ancient grains are varieties that have remained largely unchanged for thousands of years, unlike modern wheat which has been extensively hybridized for high yields and processing qualities. The most common ancient grain wheats include:

Einkorn: The oldest known cultivated wheat, dating back around 10,000 years with just 14 chromosomes (compared to modern wheat’s 42) making it genetically much simpler and potentially easier to digest
Emmer (also called farro medio in Italy): An ancient wheat brought to Italy by Romans when they invaded Egypt in 47BC, nicknamed “Pharaoh’s Wheat” by Julius Caesar
Spelt (farro grande): A hulled wheat that appears even in Greek mythology as a gift from Demeter, the goddess of agriculture
Kamut (Khorasan wheat): Large kernels with roots in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia, known for its rich, buttery flavor

What makes these grains special isn’t just their history – it’s their flavor, nutrition profile, and baking characteristics.

Why Ancient Grains?

For home bakers, ancient grains offer several compelling advantages:

Flavor: They generally provide more complex, nutty, and rich flavors than modern wheat, with Khorasan (Kamut) offering a distinctive buttery flavor and spelt providing a slightly sweeter taste than modern wheat
Nutrition: Scientific studies show higher mineral content in ancient wheat flours (0.69-1.95%) compared to common wheat flour (0.063%), with einkorn containing significantly higher levels of antioxidants like lutein and beta-carotene than modern wheat varieties
Digestibility: While not recommended for individuals with celiac disease, many find ancient grains easier to digest than modern wheat varieties due to their simpler gluten structures—einkorn in particular has only 14 chromosomes compared to modern wheat’s 42, resulting in a weaker gluten structure
Baking character: They create breads with distinctive textures and keeping qualities—especially when used in sourdough applications

Understanding Different Flour Types

Whether using ancient or modern grains, understanding flour types is essential:

Whole Grain Flour

Contains 100% of the grain (bran, germ, and endosperm)
Highest in nutrients and flavor
Absorbs more water in baking
Creates denser baked goods

All-Purpose Flour

Contains primarily the endosperm with some bran and germ removed
More consistent in baking applications
Longer shelf life
Creates lighter baked goods

Bread Flour

Higher protein content (typically 12-14%)
Develops stronger gluten networks
Ideal for chewy textures and high-rise breads

Pastry/Cake Flour

Lower protein content (7-9%)
Creates tender, delicate baked goods
Less gluten development

Ancient Grain Flour Baking Techniques

Ancient grain flours don’t behave exactly like modern wheat flours. Here are some tips for success:

Hydration

Ancient grains generally absorb water differently than modern wheat. Start with:

Einkorn: 5-10% less water than your regular recipes, as einkorn flour tends to create wetter doughs requiring less liquid than regular wheat flour
Spelt: Similar hydration to modern wheat but watch carefully as it can quickly become sticky. Some bakers recommend reducing water by 20-25% in your recipe when using spelt
Emmer: May require slightly higher hydration
Kamut: Often the “thirstiest” dough that may require additional water compared to other ancient grains

Mixing & Kneading

Most ancient grain flours benefit from gentler, shorter kneading
Over-kneading can break down their more delicate gluten structure—this is especially true for spelt, where the gluten can start to break down if overmixed
Consider autolyse (pre-mixing flour and water) to develop gluten naturally
For a more beginner-friendly approach, try blending ancient grains with modern wheat (a 60/40 blend of ancient grain to modern wheat flour works well for many bakers)

Fermentation

Ancient grain doughs often ferment more quickly
Watch your dough rather than the clock
Consider reducing yeast or proofing temperatures
Rye flour (if you’re experimenting with it) has high enzyme content that can affect fermentation—refrigeration can help slow the process

Where to Find Quality Ancient Grain Flour for Baking

You don’t need to grow your own wheat to experiment with these flours (though some ambitious gardeners do!). Quality sources include:

Local mills (the freshest option)
Health food stores
Online specialty retailers
Some well-stocked supermarkets

When purchasing, look for:

Stone-ground options when possible
“Whole grain” labeling if you want the complete nutrition
Freshness dates (flour is best used within 3 months)

Simple Recipes to Start Your Ancient Grain Journey

Basic Einkorn Bread (No-Knead Method)

3 cups whole grain einkorn flour
1.5 cups water
1.5 tsp salt
1/4 tsp instant yeast

Mix until just combined (remember that einkorn doesn’t need much handling), let rise for 12-18 hours, shape gently, proof briefly, and bake in a preheated dutch oven at 450°F for 30 minutes covered, 15 minutes uncovered. The result will have a rich, nutty flavor with a golden hue from einkorn’s natural carotenoids.

Spelt Sandwich Loaf

4 cups spelt flour (mix of whole and all-purpose works well)
1 1/3 cups water
2 Tbsp honey
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 tsp instant yeast
1.5 tsp salt

Mix, knead gently (remember spelt gluten can break down if overworked), rise until doubled, shape, proof in a loaf pan, and bake at 375°F for about 35 minutes. This makes a slightly sweet, tender loaf perfect for sandwiches.

Easy Einkorn Pancakes

2 cups all-purpose einkorn flour
2 Tbsp sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
2 cups buttermilk
2 large eggs
3 Tbsp melted butter

Whisk dry ingredients, mix wet ingredients separately, then combine just until blended (small lumps are fine). Cook on a medium-hot griddle until bubbles form, then flip. These pancakes have an incredible flavor and tender texture that will make you forget about regular wheat pancakes.

Beyond Bread

Ancient grains shine in many applications beyond basic bread:

Pancakes and waffles (einkorn makes incredibly tender ones)
Pizza dough (try kamut for a buttery base)
Crackers (emmer creates crisp, flavorful crackers)
Pasta (many Italian artisans still use ancient grains, especially emmer which excels in pasta making)
Scones (kamut flour can enhance flavor, making them taste richer and buttery)
Cinnamon bread (try a 50-50 blend of kamut and all-purpose for exceptional tenderness)
Banana bread and muffins (most ancient grains work well in quick breads)

A good rule of thumb for beginners is to start by substituting just 25-50% of your all-purpose flour with an ancient grain flour. This allows you to enjoy the distinctive flavors while maintaining familiar textures.

Final Thoughts

When purchasing ancient grain flours, look for stone-ground options from specialty mills, health food stores, or online retailers, and check freshness dates as these flours can go rancid more quickly than conventional ones due to their higher oil content.

While these ancient grains do contain gluten and aren’t suitable for those with celiac disease, many people with mild gluten sensitivity report better tolerance of these flours, particularly einkorn with its simpler gluten structure.

Perhaps the most profound aspect of baking with ancient grains is the connection to our ancestors. When we work with einkorn or emmer flour, we’re touching the same ingredients that African people cultivated along the Nile thousands of years ago. Imagine ancient Egyptian families with their beautiful locs, grinding these grains on stone querns in the shadow of the pyramids, surrounded by the lush, green landscape that once characterized the region. These North African people developed agricultural practices and baking traditions that would spread throughout the Mediterranean and eventually the world.

The ancient grains that seemed “indescribable in a phenomenal way” to our community member have sustained humanity for millennia—connecting us through time to the birthplace of agriculture and bread-making. Happy baking, and please share your ancient grain experiences in our Facebook community!

Have you tried baking with ancient grains? Share your experiences in the comments below or in our Facebook community. Let’s continue rediscovering these treasures from our past and bringing them into our modern kitchens!

~ Henry

What Are Ancient Grain Flours?

Why Ancient Grains?